Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (2024)

Who should buy

With a design similar to the more recent 990 v5 and v6, the v3 still has a more dated look to it. But in the case of the New Balance 990 series, that means being even more iconic.

We believe that this particular iteration is going to please people who are after:

  • a genuine dad shoe that looks like it has spent two decades at the back of the closet
  • a sneaker that was crafted in the USA using high-quality materials like pig suede
  • a 990 kick that is very breathable and summer-ready

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Who should NOT buy

Our biggest gripe about the NB 990 v3 is that it is quite hard to cop! If you just can't find the right size or colorway for this model, we recommend looking into the more recent 990 releases. The v6 are much more available these days.

You are also more likely to enjoy the latter versions as they are more than an ounce lighter than the v3!

You might as well consider New Balance's 1906R if you want a similar silhouette with a more abrasion-resistant mesh upper.

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Breathability

With its large suede overlays and puffy tongue, the New Balance 990 v3 doesn't come across as a breathable sneaker. But, oh boy, is it a ventilator in disguise!

We were pleasantly surprised by the cool breeze touching our toes when we first got the shoe on. And as the day progressed, we couldn't help but notice how wonderfully fresh our feet remained.

Back in the lab, our experience was fully backed by the results of the smoke-pumping machine test. Filling the shoe's upper with smoke, we observed how effortlessly it escaped through the mesh panel on the toebox.

In our transparency test above, you can get a better idea of how airy the shoe's mesh actually is. That is something that the OG 990 was missing out on big time.

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Exploring the mesh through our microscope revealed a more relaxed weave pattern on the 990 v3 compared to the preceding models. We think New Balance made the right decision by shifting towards breathability in the v3.

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Mesh on the New Balance 990 v3

For comparison, here is how dense the "mesh" was on the 990 v1 (photo below). That shoe received only 3 out of 5 for breathability, whereas the 990 v3 earned the maximum score of 5.

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (5)

Mesh on the New Balance 990 v1

Test results

990 v3 5
Average 2.9

Compared to 51 sneakers

Number of shoes

1

Breathability

5

Durability

Leather/Suede quality

When the very first 990 sneaker was released in 1982, it was promoted as a US-made product with premium-level materials and craftsmanship. That stays true for the 990 v3.

Even though the shoe's above-average price tag implies high-quality materials, we are not convinced until we test ourselves.

As you can see from our butane torch test, the shoe's suede overlays did not catch fire or melt like the synthetic fabric above. This is an indication of real suede.

Test results

990 v3 Real suede

Toebox durability

Cutting some suede away from the v3, the brand also exposed its thin mesh toebox to faster wear and tear.

The very moment our Dremel touched the textile, it tore a large see-through hole in it. We still held the sandpaper tip at a consistent speed (5K RPM) and pressure (3.2N) for 12 seconds and the result was quite devastating compared to most other sneakers.

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (6)

The 990 v3 gets the lowest possible score of 1 for its toebox durability. If you are prone to developing holes in this part of the shoe, it's better to go for a shoe like the NB 1906R.

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The toebox on the NB 1906R is both breathable and durable.

Test results

990 v3 1
Average 3.8

Compared to 51 sneakers

Number of shoes

1

Toebox durability

5

Heel padding durability

New Balance also moved away from the synthetic leather lining to a softer and airier mesh. That also meant a step-down in the abrasion resistance but, in our opinion, it is not as critical.

Drilling the shoe's inner lining for 4 seconds with a Dremel, the damage was quite bearable. It is not the kind that affects the comfort or integrity of the shoe. Thus, we gave the heel padding durability a moderate 3 out of 5.

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Test results

990 v3 3
Average 3.5

Compared to 51 sneakers

Number of shoes

1

Heel padding durability

5

Outsole hardness

Unlike the shoe's mesh toebox, its outsole is built to last for hundreds of miles. Using NB's proprietary Ndurance rubber, the 990 v3 will take months before showing signs of wear at the bottom.

Measuring its rubber hardness with a durometer, we got 81.1 HC which is on the hard side of sneaker outsoles. And harder almost always means more abrasion resistant.

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Test results

990 v3 81.1 HC
Average 85.2 HC

We use an average of four tests. The photo shows one of those tests.

Compared to 51 sneakers

Number of shoes

72.9 HC

Outsole hardness

90.5 HC

Outsole durability

To mimic the wear and tear of many miles on the asphalt, we set the speed of our Dremel to the high 10K RPM and applied its sandpaper tip to the rubber for 22 seconds.

The results were stunning! The dent was barely even noticeable and our tread gauge showed that it was only 0.7 mm deep! Anything shallower than 1 mm is worth special praise in the sneakers category.

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Test results

990 v3 0.7 mm
Average 1.0 mm

Compared to 51 sneakers

Number of shoes

0.0 mm

Outsole wear

2.0 mm

Outsole thickness

What's more, the shoe's prolonged outsole life is guaranteed by a generously thick slab of rubber. Based on our caliper, it has a solid thickness of 5.1 mm.

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Test results

990 v3 5.1 mm
Average 5.5 mm

Compared to 52 sneakers

Number of shoes

3.4 mm

Outsole thickness

8.6 mm

Weight

The 990 v3 sees a lot of great updates and improvements over the predecessors but there is one change that made us frown - its weight.

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (12)

We found it to be the heaviest iteration of the series at 14.5 oz (410g) in a men's US size 9. For reference, the thicker and bulkier 990 v6 is over an ounce lighter at 12.9 oz (366g).

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Test results

990 v3 14.46 oz (410g)
Average 14.07 oz (399g)

Compared to 52 sneakers

Number of shoes

8.54 oz (242g)

Weight

22.61 oz (641g)

Cushioning

Heel stack

Having worn the 990 v3 for several days, we can confirm its excellent capacity as an all-day beater.

The shoe's platform felt thick enough to keep us supported without feeling disconnected from the ground. As our caliper measurement shows, the shoe's heel stack comes in at 32.2 mm which is right at the average of casual sneakers.

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (14)

New Balance 990 v3

But if you're a fan of bigger and higher platforms, the 990 v6 might be more appealing with its 39.1 mm heel.

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (15)

New Balance 990 v6

Test results

990 v3 32.2 mm
Average 29.6 mm

Compared to 52 sneakers

Number of shoes

18.2 mm

Heel stack

41.8 mm

Forefoot stack

As for the forefoot, it turned out to be almost the same as the average at 22.3 mm. This is just enough to buffer the ball of our feet from the ground.

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Test results

990 v3 22.3 mm
Average 18.8 mm

Compared to 52 sneakers

Number of shoes

10.6 mm

Forefoot stack

28.3 mm

Drop

Another welcome aspect of the 990 v3 is its smooth heel-to-toe slope. There is no drastic elevation in the heel as the difference in stack heights measures 9.9 mm.

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Test results

990 v3 9.9 mm
Average 10.9 mm

Compared to 52 sneakers

Number of shoes

6.7 mm

Drop

17.2 mm

Midsole softness

Note: a low durometer measurement equals a soft material, whereas a high measurement means it's firm.

There is a tendency for NB's 990 models to have a firmer type of cushioning. And the 990 v3 is no exception.

Measuring its midsole foam with a durometer, we got 31.4 HA which is 10% firmer than the average sneaker. But it doesn't feel hard when walking either. Sure, it's nothing like walking on clouds but it keeps the feet nice and stable.

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (18)

Test results

990 v3 31.4 HA
Average 29.5 HA

We use an average of four tests. The photo shows one of those tests.

Compared to 42 sneakers

Number of shoes

15.0 HA

Midsole softness (soft to firm)

60.0 HA

Insole thickness

A padded insole cushions the shoe's midsole firmness. We measured its thickness at 4.4 mm which is not the thicknest but does the job well.

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (19)

Test results

990 v3 4.4 mm
Average 5.4 mm

Compared to 52 sneakers

Number of shoes

3.1 mm

Insole thickness

13.9 mm

Stability

Lateral stability test

Originally released in 2012, the 990 v3 debuted the supportive ENCAP midsole. Resembling a typical stability running shoe of that decade, this technology creates a stable chassis for the foot to land and transition to the next step steadily.

Our feet thoroughly enjoyed all the arch support they could get from the ENCAP. We felt careless as the 990 v3 helped us forget about ankle twists and awkward inward tilting of the foot.

Torsional rigidity

The ENCAP technology pairs with the firm midsole to form a rather stiff and steady platform.

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (20)

Assessing the shoe's torsional rigidity in our manual test, we rated it with a high score of 4 out of 5. Nearly the stiffest out there!

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If you have flat feet or overpronation, we can guarantee sweet relief in this supportive New Balance sneaker.

Test results

990 v3 4
Average 3.5

Compared to 51 sneakers

Number of shoes

1

Torsional rigidity

5

Heel counter stiffness

In addition to the stable platform, our feet were also treated to a nice and firm heel hold. The overlays, the collar padding, and the structured heel counter all conspired to hold the rearfoot very securely in place.

On a 1-5 scale, where 5 is the stiffest, we rated the 990 v3's heel counter stiffness as 4. That's on par with the highly supportive running shoes of today.

Test results

990 v3 4
Average 3.2

Compared to 51 sneakers

Number of shoes

1

Heel counter stiffness

5

Midsole width in the forefoot

The 990 v3 builds upon the already broad platform of the original shoe, widening it even more in the forefoot.

As our caliper shows, the widest part of the shoe's midsole comes in at 113.3 mm which is even a few millimeters broader than the average!

Sure, it adds some bulk to the v3 but that also means feeling more surefooted. Not to mention the oversized vibes that it gives.

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (22)

Test results

990 v3 113.3 mm
Average 108.8 mm

Compared to 52 sneakers

Number of shoes

100.0 mm

Midsole width in the forefoot

121.0 mm

Midsole width in the heel

In the heel, the 990 v3 remains just as wide as we remember it in the previous models.

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At 89.2 mm in the widest area, it is still among the broadest heels in our catalog.

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Test results

990 v3 89.2 mm
Average 83.3 mm

Compared to 52 sneakers

Number of shoes

69.4 mm

Midsole width in the heel

103.1 mm

Flexibility

Stiffness

Part of the original 990's marketing campaign was the fact that it successfully blended stability and flexibility in one shoe. For a running trainer back in the '80s that was quite a trick!

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (25)

The concept surely carried over to the 990's third generation. As we tested the shoe's flexibility in the lab, our force gauge showed that it took 23.3N to bend the v3 to a 90-degree angle.

That's only 4% stiffer than the average and gives just enough freedom of movement in the metatarsal area.

Test results

990 v3 23.3N
Average 23.4N

We use an average of four tests. The video shows one of those tests.

Compared to 52 sneakers

Number of shoes

5.8N

Stiffness

51.8N

Size and fit

Toebox width at the widest part

What runs true to size and fits every foot? Correct, a New Balance shoe!

Trying the 990 v3 in our regular US size 9, we expected nothing short of a comfortable, perfectly fitting sneaker.

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (26)

In the widest part of the toebox, we found it to be consistent with the previous 990's at 97.8 mm.

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Test results

990 v3 97.8 mm
Average 99.1 mm

Compared to 52 sneakers

Number of shoes

91.6 mm

Toebox width at the widest part

107.7 mm

Toebox width at the big toe

Looking at the tip of the forefoot, our caliper showed that the v3 is even a couple of millimeters wider than the OG 990. At 77.0 mm, it leaves a good amount of space for the toes with no aggressive tapering whatsoever.

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (28)

Test results

990 v3 77.0 mm
Average 74.9 mm

Compared to 51 sneakers

Number of shoes

63.7 mm

Toebox width at the big toe

83.0 mm

Tongue: gusset type

There are no gussets on the sides of the shoe's tongue but we didn't feel like they were missing. Our feet were held very securely and comfortably thanks to the tongue's wide shape and padding.

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (29)

Test results

990 v3 None

Comfort

Tongue padding

For the 3rd 990 iteration, New Balance puffed up its interiors with very generous padding. Coming from the 2.5 mm tongue on the 990 v1, it went all the way to 12.4 mm in the v3!

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (30)

We must admit that it changed the in-shoe feel considerably and for the better. We were also amazed that the thicker tongue didn't detract from the shoe's ventilation capacity either.

There is also notably more overall padding inside the v3, especially around the ankle.

Test results

990 v3 12.4 mm
Average 9.3 mm

Compared to 52 sneakers

Number of shoes

1.0 mm

Tongue padding

38.4 mm

Heel tab

The 990 v3 has no pull tabs or finger loops but we found it quite easy to slide into it thanks to the wide shoe mouth.

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (31)

Test results

990 v3 None

Removable insole

The shoe's stock insole is easy to remove and replace with a custom orthotic of your choice.

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (32)

Test results

990 v3 Yes

Misc

Reflective elements

This New Balance sneaker has no fear of the dark, featuring reflective N logos and heel collar panels.

Test results

990 v3 Yes

A twist to the iconic 990

The third edition of the 990 sneaker was launched in 2012, commemorating the silhouette's 30th birthday. The shoe received quite a makeover resembling the more contemporary 990 v5 and v6.

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (33)

Suede overlays have been trimmed down considerably in the v3, giving way to the larger mesh panels and much better breathability.

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This iteration also received a technological upgrade in the form of the ENCAP midsole which was then inherited by the succeeding iterations.

Cut in half: New Balance 990 v3 Review (2024) (2024)

FAQs

What does v3 mean on New Balance shoes? ›

The "v" indicates the version number of your shoes. For example, the New Balance 880v10 has received multiple updates (v2, v3, v4, v5, v6,v7) When looking at the complete style number (ex. M860K10) the letters that follow the number indicate the color code.

Are New Balance 990 good for walking? ›

We think they're great for standing, walking, daily activities, and many things other than running. A small percentage of heavier over-pronating runners and weekend warriors who only log three to four miles at once could enjoy the 990 Heritage as their primary running shoe.

When did New Balance v3 come out? ›

Originally released in 2012, the 990 v3 debuted the supportive ENCAP midsole.

What age group buys New Balance shoes? ›

New Balance Has Gained Significant Interest Among Gen Z

Compared to this time last year, favorability among Gen Z adults aged 18-24 jumped from 34% in September 2022 to 52% in September 2023. Whereas, favorability among all other generations stayed relatively stagnant from this time last year.

Are higher number New Balance shoes better? ›

But first, a bit on the labeling system. Per New Balance, each piece of the model number that every sneaker is assigned means something specific. As a rule of thumb, higher-numbered sneakers typically feature more advanced and modern tech than their lower-numbered counterparts, with some exceptions.

Should I size up or down for New Balance 990? ›

As others have said, the New Balance 990 is a proper true to size sneaker! I wouldn't even risk going up or down half a size as I like the perfect fit for my trainers, they're more comfortable that way.

Do new balances run small? ›

Our shoes generally run true to size and align with standard industry sizing. If a style runs smaller or larger, we note that on the product page to help you choose the best size. We offer our shoes in a range of widths from X-Narrow to XX-Wide to help everyone get the perfect fit.

What size should I get in flip flops? ›

Now that you have your measurement, in inches preferably, it is time to find the correct size flip flop. We recommend picking the size that will give you the closest to 1-inch additional length when added to the measurement of your foot.

Why are New Balance 990 so expensive? ›

Retailing for $100 right out of the gate, the shoe was a big gamble from New Balance, as sneakers didn't usually cost that much back then; I think what made people immediately willing to pay this much was the fact that it was the perfect synthesis of attractive style, high quality performance, and domestic production.

Do podiatrists recommend New Balance? ›

Do podiatrists recommend New Balances? Yes, New Balance shoes are excellent shoes for everyday use and for high mileage runners, says Dr. Espino.

Are New Balance shoes good for bad knees? ›

New Balance's Fresh Foam X 1080v12 running shoes are our best overall pick for preventing knee pain because they're supportive, stable, and well-cushioned. We were also pleasantly surprised by how much these shoes helped with plantar fasciitis when we tried them.

Are 990 V3 running shoes? ›

Product Details Save. The New Balance 990V3 Running Shoe is a comfortable option for both runners and walkers.

Is the 990V3 discontinued? ›

JJJJound's take, for instance, currently sells for upwards of $3,000 USD, a price never-before-seen for a pair of New Balances. As it's since been replaced by subsequent editions, the New Balance 990v3 is currently out of production.

What sneakers did Steve Jobs wear? ›

New Balance's 99X line has stayed remarkably consistent since its introduction in 1982. Also consistent was Steve Jobs' preference for it. Company chairman Jim Davis has claimed that the original design concept came from Jobs himself, and the 992 was said to be the late Apple co-founder's favorite.

Should you go up or down on slipper size? ›

The size you measure is usually the size you need. If your child is between sizes, we'd recommend going up rather than down. As with all footwear, you just need to check the slippers fit once they arrive. They should fit snugly around your child's foot and heel with a little wiggle room at the toes.

Do New Balance 990v5 run true to size? ›

How does the New Balance 990 fit? The New Balance 990v5s fit true to size; thus, I'd recommend choosing your regular size when purchasing a pair.

Are New Balance slides true to size? ›

While individual experiences may vary, it is generally observed that New Balance shoes tend to run true to size or slightly larger compared to other brands. This means that if you typically wear a certain size in other shoe brands, you may find that the same size in New Balance shoes provides a suitable fit.

Are New Balance 990v3 TTS? ›

It's a very easy sneaker to wear all day without any discomfort. In my experience, I recommend going down a half size in the 990v3. I think if I would have gone tts, it would still fit, it would just be slightly large. The size 7.5 fit, but was a little snug on the tip of my toes.

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